The Best Condition Ring Storage Solution, For Free*


What Is This & Why Are You Giving It Away?

What?: We designed a 3D printable storage box for our rings.

Well, we are moving away from 3D printing, but since it's already designed, we are releasing the model files so our customers (or anyone who has printed Luke's rings) can benefit from our efforts.

Is this Related to the Kickstarter? What's the full story here? Yes it is. For those unaware, we had originally planned to injection mold this box and we had a 2020 Kickstarter to help fund the project. For a variety of reasons, the Kickstarter was not up to our expectations and we decided to cancel and re-evaluate. In the months since, we have decided primarily to focus on dice. However, since the rings were already well along in development, we opted to push them forward into injection molding. The boxes on the other hand we have decided are too much work to 3D print at scale, and too expensive to push into injection molding. Thus, we are discontinuing their production. Rather than see the the finished models go unused, we decided it would be better to let our customers and the community have access to the designs so the boxes could still be 3D printed.

Model Files

V1 Storage Box

File Information: [176kb Zip] containing 2 STLs and a TXT Read-me 

This base and lid will best accommodate Viridian's 3D printed rings Fall 2019-Feb 2021 or models from Luke's Thingiverse listing when using extruded models printed at approx ring height of 4.6mm or less.

V2 Storage Box

(For Injection Molded Rings)

File Information: [127kb Zip] containing 2 STLs and a TXT Read-me 

This base and lid will best accommodate Viridian's Injection Molded Rings (link coming soon) March 2021-Present.  

These models are available as-is with a Creative Commons: Attribution, Non-Commercial, No Derivatives 4.0 Intl. License.
See below for printing instructions and additional licensing/legal info.

Printing Recommendations

Note: These settings are just what we found to work well for us based on a lot of trial/error. Feel free to deviate to taste.

  • Recommended Material: PLA (Other stronger materials may give a stronger final product but be harder to print with). 
  • Basics: .2mm layer height, 2 walls, slow initial layer speed (25mm or less), top/bottom layers: 3.
  • Infill: 10% is sufficient for a strong box, less may also work, and more will increase strength. Going above 15% is unnecessary. 
  • Supports: No supports needed.
  • Combing: On, not in skin.
  • Adhesion: Adhesive (Aquanet hairspray, Elmer's school gluestick) recommended as the surface area is huge and may warp or pull from the base without extra adhesive, especially at corners. Aquanet was our preferred solution as it works well and leaves a fairly consistent surface when sprayed on uniformly.
  • Adhesion (cont): A little bit of extra 'smoosh' on your first layer is recommended to further resist warping. 0.24 initial layer may further help.
  • Advanced Suggestion 1: for a more seamless/smooth lockup change the line orientation to go lengthwise straight down the rail (on the long flat part) on both the lid side AND the inside track on the base where the parts touch. Cura has a setting 'top/bottom line directions' that you can modify to 90, 180, 90, 180 Etc... until you hit the appropriate layers, then just shift it to whichever angle you need, slice and view to see if it changed the right layer. 
  • Advanced Suggestion 2: Print the first layer in lengthwise lines using the suggestion 1 method. This will allow you to easily post process sand in one direction thats consistent with the rest of the design for a better final look. 
  • Lid Tolerance Note: V1 was designed/tested to work on Creality CR-10S and V2 was designed/tested to work with Creality's CR-10S and Prusa's Mk3S. Other printers may need the lid adjusted to be slightly more/less wide to achieve proper lock-up with the base. Re-print just the lid if you're finding it to be too tight or too loose. 

Post Processing (optional - We gave our boxes an added 'brushed' finish to remove undesireable swirls and light marks):  

1.  Wash the top and bottom with soapy warm (not hot) water to remove any adhesive (if used).

2.  Starting with a maroon Scrotch-Brite Pad (fine) wet the top/bottom and began sanding/scrubbing with the print grain/lines (10-20 seconds). Avoid scrubbing too hard as you will gouge the plastic. Circular motions or going any direction other than lengthwise will leave a less consistent final product.   

3.  Move on to a grey pad (super fine) for finishing in the same way (15-30 seconds). 

4.  You can add a white pad (ultra fine) is you want a more shiny finish. 

Other sanding methods may work too, but we recommend wet sanding generally and avoiding overdoing it as PLA plastic is not terribly thick and doesnt handle heat well. You could also try paint, or a smoothing/filling agent. 

Licensing & Legal Disclosures

These models are provided for free under Creative Commons | Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0). Mainly, this means: You must give appropriate credit in their use and you can not remix or use them commercially. These files are provided as-is and without any warranty implied or otherwise. More Info about the license. If you have questions about the license, please contact us (

Provided by Luke Crevier (TheLukeC on Thingiverse) and Viridian Gaming Supplies LLC. If you see them for sale or otherwise used in a way inconsistent with our licensing, please let us know (